Blending In As A Local

When I tell the taxi dri­vers here the name of the street I want to go to (pro­nounced from mem­ory because the names are too com­pli­cated to under­stand), they don’t always know how to get there. That’s why I always have the name of a pop­u­lar land­mark in close prox­im­ity mem­o­rized, and when I men­tion this, it usu­ally gets me where I want to go. Sometimes I get a part-time cab­bie though, who doesn’t even know where this land­mark is. That’s when they ask me how to get there, or what else is around, or if it’s close to such-and-such-a-place adja­cent to such-and-such-a-street. Somehow, they assume that I’m a local.

Which is odd, because I know I have an English accent when I speak Chinese, so I assume most peo­ple can tell I’m not from around here. When I was here five years ago, most peo­ple said they knew I wasn’t from Hong Kong before I even opened my mouth. Something about the way I looked or dressed or acted.

Guess I’m fool­ing some­one now.

Hong Kong Food Diary: Week 2

Soft shelled crab

Thumbnail: Banana cream pie
Thumbnail: Fried white Chinese carrot cake
Thumbnail: Banana pancake
Thumbnail: Barbecue spare ribs
Thumbnail: Stewed Chinese cabbage and spare ribs
Thumbnail: Cauliflower with pork
Thumbnail: Stir fried Chinese broccoli with garlic
Thumbnail: Chiu Chow Congee
Thumbnail: cloud ears, tofu, Chinese mushrooms, and glass noodles
Thumbnail: Canoe congee with calamari
Thumbnail: Deep fried banana
Thumbnail: Deep fried fish
Thumbnail: Fish balls and pork rice noodles
Thumbnail: Iced Horlicks
Thumbnail: steamed fish with black bean sauce and minced pork
Thumbnail: French toast
Thumbnail: Fried eggs with preserved pickles
Thumbnail: fried noodles with bean sprouts and bbq pork
Thumbnail: Fruit bowl
Thumbnail: Green tea tiramisu
Thumbnail: Ham and mozzarella sandwich
Thumbnail: Honey and lemon tea
Thumbnail: King fried noodles
Thumbnail: Minced beef roast congee
Thumbnail: Mixed Chinese vegetables
Thumbnail: Fried noodles with bean sprouts
Thumbnail: Noodles with shrimp
Thumbnail: Oil fried ghosts
Thumbnail: Oil ghosts in flat noodles
Thumbnail: omelette with Chinese onion and bean sprouts
Thumbnail: Paninin
Thumbnail: Pho
Thumbnail: Pho garnish
Thumbnail: Pigs blood congee
Thumbnail: Plain big flat noodles with peanut and sweet sauce
Thumbnail: Pork chop, wings, and fries
Thumbnail: Pork and preserved egg congee
Thumbnail: Pork jerky
Thumbnail: pork knuckles, ginger and eggs in black Chinese vinegar
Thumbnail: Stewed preserved Chinese cabbage with spare ribs
Thumbnail: Sea salted chicken
Thumbnail: Bean sprout shrimp omelette
Thumbnail: Small pizza
Thumbnail: Smoked fish patty
Thumbnail: Soups and noodles
Thumbnail: spare ribs with black bean and red pepper
Thumbnail: Steamed fish
Thumbnail: Stir fried chicken with string beans
Thumbnail: Stir fried glass noodles with shrimp
Thumbnail: Fried tofu with Chinese onions
Thumbnail: Chinese vegetables with fatty pork
Thumbnail: Vietnamese coffee
Thumbnail: Vietnamese sandwich
Thumbnail: Vietnamese spring rolls
Thumbnail: Winter melon and pork bone soup
 

My cousin brought over some Japanese apples that cost $90 HKD ($15 CAD) for a pair. They were light green and quite large, but they didn’t taste that unique. My uncle believes the cost comes from the way the apples are grown: all the branches but one are cut from the apple tree, so all the nutri­ents go into one apple.

I’m so glad my fam­ily knows how to eat; I get to par­take in all the amaz­ing food they buy or cook. Even snacks — cook­ies, candy, ice cream, and drinks — are of a par­tic­u­lar qual­ity. I’m won­der­ing how much weight I’ve gained so far.

Other weeks in my Hong Kong Food Diary

Sum Sum eating dessert

Nan Lian Garden and Chi Lin Nunnery

Nan Lian Garden

Perfection Pavilion

Thumbnail: Banyan Grove
Thumbnail: Coy
Thumbnail: Garden grass
Thumbnail: Garden overview
Thumbnail: Lotus pond
Thumbnail: Lotus pond
Thumbnail: Nan Lian rocks
Thumbnail: Trees
Thumbnail: Pavilion bridge
Thumbnail: Petrified wood
Thumbnail: Silver strand
Thumbnail: Small trees
Thumbnail: Small tree leaves
Thumbnail: Small tree roots
Thumbnail: Tree weave
Thumbnail: Unique tree
Thumbnail: Gift shop
 

Nestled in the con­crete jun­gle that is Hong Kong is Nan Lian Garden, a newly-built park that fea­tures dis­tinct green­ery and build­ings. The archi­tec­ture was mod­eled after clas­si­cal Chinese build­ings, and con­structed using wood that is inter­locked in a way that no nails or glue are needed. One thing that I noticed was that it was very quiet inside the gar­den grounds, when most of Hong Kong has the con­stant sound of traf­fic (unless you’re on a moun­tain). It turns out that sound-dampening bar­ri­ers around the perime­ter have been erected to cre­ate the peace­ful atmos­phere. It’s quite amaz­ing to see sky­scrap­ers so close and all around, when there is such a calm place here. There must be a tremen­dous amount of labour involved in keep such a place, as guards, gar­den­ers, and grounds keep­ers were always around. I wish Julie was there; she would appre­ci­ate the hor­ti­cul­ture so much more than I could.

There’s a dress code, des­ig­nated eat­ing areas, and vis­i­tors aren’t allowed to take group pho­tos, so as to not dis­turb oth­ers try­ing to enjoy the sur­round­ings. More places need to imple­ment rules like this.

Unfortunately, the areas of scale mod­els and exam­ples of inter­lock­ing wood were not allowed to be pho­tographed. I tried to do so sur­rep­ti­tiously and shoot from the hip when the guard wasn’t look­ing, but the pho­tos didn’t turn out.

Chi Lin Nunnery

Lotus garden entrance

Thumbnail: Lotus pond
Thumbnail: Shrine
Thumbnail: Bronze piece
Thumbnail: Incense holders
 

The Chi Lin Nunnery is a Buddhist tem­ple directly attached to the Nan Lian Garden. Most of the areas were off-limits for pho­tog­ra­phy, and unfor­tu­nately, a pic­ture is the only way I could describe the many colours and stat­ues in each of the shrines. One thing to note were the many bowls of fruit at each shrine, unlike Taoists or other non-Buddhists, who also offer meat because they’re not vegetarians.

It’s inter­est­ing to see peo­ple kneel­ing by each shrine and bow­ing their heads three times, even when they’re not Buddhist. Sort of like mak­ing the sign of the cross when enter­ing a church, I suppose.

Government House

Going up the stairs to the Government House

Thumbnail: Garden path
Thumbnail: Side of garden
Thumbnail: People sitting by the fountain
Thumbnail: Chinese scouts
Thumbnail: Different levels in Government House
Thumbnail: People and flowers
Thumbnail: Photographing flowers
Thumbnail: Trees and buildings
Thumbnail: Sidewalk view
 

I went to visit Government House, which is the offi­cial res­i­dence of the Governor of Hong Kong1. The gov­er­nors were all Caucasian, aside from when the Japanese invaded, since they were appointed by the British gov­ern­ment. Now they’re all Chinese, and they don’t live here any­more, as a sym­bol of China’s new pres­ence and to lessen the impact of old British legacy.

It was a chance oppor­tu­nity, because it’s only open to the pub­lic twice a year. Which pretty much means that it’s packed, even by Hong Kong stan­dards. People seemed to really enjoy see­ing the expan­sive gar­den and the din­ing rooms where offi­cial func­tions are held. For me, it was a good chance to pho­to­graph locals, and an impor­tant piece of Chinese history.

  1. Now renamed the “Chief Official” after the China takeover in 1997. []

A Day in the Hong Kong Life

Crossing the street

Thumbnail: Dad with sum sum
Thumbnail: Chinese entranceway shrine
Thumbnail: Grandma at tea
Thumbnail: Indoor skating rink
Thumbnail: Skater
Thumbnail: Kid on motorcycle
Thumbnail: Hong Kong mall
Thumbnail: Row of Mercedes
Thumbnail: Open kitchen
Thumbnail: Grandma with aunt
 

Grandma has been han­dling the chemo well. We’re try­ing to slow the growth of the major tumor so that there are no block­ages. She’s not sup­posed to eat meat, but we want her to enjoy life (along with the fact that we’re glad she’s eat­ing at all because she has no appetite) so we let her.

Most days are unplanned, just see­ing how she’s feel­ing before we decide to do anything.

I’m begin­ning to sleep a lit­tle bet­ter now. For the first week and a half, I’d still wake up in the mid­dle of the night, unable to fall asleep again even though I’d be com­pletely exhausted from jet lag and walk­ing around all day. I’m not sure if I’m just get­ting used to the day/night pat­tern, or the fact that I’m taper­ing off one of my col­i­tis med­ica­tions which has sleep­less­ness as one of the side effects.

So the cur­rent sched­ule is:

  • Wake up around 7:30
  • Eat break­fast
  • Watch TV with grandma
  • Fall asleep on the couch — The win­dows are left open all the time and the air is rel­a­tively cool in the morn­ing, so i’ll just let myself suc­cumb to the breeze and drowsi­ness. Normally I need to be lying down, wear­ing a sleep mask, but not in this case. These naps are awe­some.
  • Eat lunch
  • An activ­ity with grandma if she’s feel­ing up to it — this can be a walk to the park, get­ting her hair done and her feet mas­saged, or a walk to a restaurant
  • Afternoon tea — Snacks can be sweet, salty, or both
  • A chance to write, work on pic­tures, or edit videos because grandma takes a nap
  • Have din­ner
  • Hang out with guests/family
  • Watch TV — There are two shows that seem to be big right now that my fam­ily enjoys watch­ing; an under­cover cop tele­vi­sion drama, and a Chinese fan­tasy called “Big Winter Melon”. I’m really get­ting into the for­mer because it’s well writ­ten with lots of inten­sity (although the direct­ing style is so out-dated by Hollywood stan­dards). The lat­ter is another story…I’ve tried watch­ing a few episodes and still can’t fig­ure out what’s going on, or even if it’s a com­edy or drama.
  • Shower (a nice way to cool off before going to bed)
  • Some more writ­ing while every­one is asleep.

It’s been an end­less cycle of peo­ple com­ing through the house, whether it’s fam­ily or friends, din­ner or tea, a chat or a visit. Spending time with them leaves me some­what lack­adaisi­cal. I don’t want to be anti-social and get up to do some­thing else, but I’m rarely involved in any of the con­ver­sa­tions, and the top­ics are often vapid.

Unfortunately, I haven’t had a chance to hang out with my Uncle Joe much because I’m try­ing spend as much time with grandma as pos­si­ble, but next week should offer a bet­ter oppor­tu­nity. I hope to do more explor­ing then.

It’s cer­tainly a bit­ter­sweet exis­tence here. Being in Hong Kong again fills me with won­der, but see­ing my poor grand­mother going through so much breaks my heart.

Wong Tai Sin Temple

As a Taoist, I felt it was only nat­ural that I visit the most famous Taoist tem­ple in Hong Kong while here.

Maybe I was being naïve, but I was pic­tur­ing some­thing like Washington Square Park, except instead of chess board tables, there would be peo­ple sit­ting around, dis­cussing Chuang Tzu’s para­bles, or sprightly con­ver­sa­tions about the hap­pi­ness of fish. Instead, it was more like a gigan­tic fortune-telling, wish­ing well extrav­a­ganza. People go there to wor­ship Taoist deities by burn­ing incense, pray­ing to them for their wishes to come true, and have their for­tunes told through the prac­tice of kau cim, which is when they shake a con­tainer full of bam­boo sticks until one falls out, and the char­ac­ter on the stick is inter­preted by a sooth­sayer1.

It amazes me how vastly dif­fer­ent the Taoist phi­los­o­phy is from the reli­gion. I couldn’t relate to any of this at all. The Taoists here are try­ing to get a hol­i­day — on Lau Tzu’s birth­day, if I under­stand cor­rectly — because other reli­gions get a day off. This strikes me as some­what strange, since Lao Tzu is still dis­puted to be a myth­i­cal fig­ure, with an unknown date of birth. I also have to won­der if Lao Tzu would approve of such a ritual.

At one point, there was an old lady wor­ship­ing at the entrance of a build­ing, and a woman came out and said, “Ma’am, this is the infor­ma­tion booth. You don’t need to wor­ship us.” My uncle and I couldn’t stop laughing.

(This was a quiet day in the mid­dle of the after­noon. Apparently, on spe­cial days of the Chinese lunar cal­en­dar, it’s packed, and the incense smoke too thick to breathe. Superstition has always been a part of the Chinese culture.)

  1. That’s the part of the video where the peo­ple are kneel­ing, and you can hear the bam­boo shak­ers. It’s a short clip because I wasn’t allowed to film there. []

Hong Kong Food Diary: Week 1

Chocolate mousse

Thumbnail: Stir fried abalone mushrooms with pork
Thumbnail: Stir fried Chinese broccoli
Thumbnail: Coconut mousse
Thumbnail: Coffee, citrus, and sago taro root jellies
Thumbnail: Stir fried crabs in black bean sauce
Thumbnail: Chinese dinner platter
Thumbnail: Chinese duck and chicken
Thumbnail: Egg chicken in soya sauce
Thumbnail: Fresh bread
Thumbnail: Chrysanthemum honey and aloe jelly
Thumbnail: latte
Thumbnail: Mango mousse
Thumbnail: Mango pudding
Thumbnail: Strawberry and chocolate mousse
Thumbnail: Oysters in the half shell
Thumbnail: Phoenix talons (chicken feet) and spare ribs in oyster sauce
Thumbnail: Fried black pepper pork chops with onions and potatoes
Thumbnail: Pork knuckles, eggs, and ginger in Chinese black vinegar.
Thumbnail: Pork neck fried noodles
Thumbnail: Salad bar
Thumbnail: Steamed scallops with black bean paste
Thumbnail: Seafood
Thumbnail: Seafood fried noodles
Thumbnail: Seafood fried rice with egg
Thumbnail: Seafood linguine
Thumbnail: Steamed shrimp in garlic sauce
Thumbnail: Soba noodles
Thumbnail: Chinese soup
Thumbnail: Steak pizza
Thumbnail: Steamed fish
Thumbnail: Black steamed fish in sea salt.
Thumbnail: Sushi platter
Thumbnail: Tofu and crab ball
Thumbnail: Tofu flower
Thumbnail: Yin yang shrimp
 

I’ve decided to break up my food pho­tos by week, since there’s so much to write about. I’m an extremely picky eater, but I’ve rav­en­ously con­sumed every­thing that’s come across my plate (aside from one type of fish, and a dish involv­ing bit­ter melon). I’m not sure if it’s because the food is fresh, cooked well, or because I can’t cook Chinese food myself and have been with­out for a long time, but every­thing tastes so good. And these aren’t pho­tos of all the food I’ve eaten so far; there have been a few times I didn’t have my still cam­era with me.

Fish is bought fresh every day since the mar­kets are so close. I don’t get a chance to eat fish very often, but now it seems to be in every meal. I don’t think I’ve had the same dish more than twice. This is the rea­son why I was going to come with Pat and Jen last year, who are gour­mands beyond me. And Bronwen, because she loves try­ing new things, espe­cially food related.

If you want descrip­tions and expla­na­tions on each dish, you’re going to have to break out of your feed read­ers and use light­box to see the cap­tions. They look so much bet­ter on black anyway.

Other weeks in my Hong Kong Food Diary

Mama eats jelly

This City Lets Me Live

Boundary Street Balcony — Sunset

I think it was some point between hail­ing a taxi to meet my Uncle Joe, and the com­fort­ing famil­iar­ity of find­ing myself in one of the same malls I was in five years ago, that it really sunk in.

I’m in HONG-FUCKING-KONG.

The con­stant din of traf­fic and peo­ple reminds me of the way New York never sleeps. It pul­sates and breathes, as if it was a body. I won­der how there can be so much life in such a tiny city1. None of my words, pic­tures, or videos could ever do it jus­tice, because it’s the expe­ri­ence that makes it real. The things that can’t be said. Like the way peo­ple treat the elderly. The every day sig­nif­i­cance of food and eat­ing well. The mil­lion sub­tleties of the Chinese culture.

The temp­ta­tion to move here is com­ing on me again, with every street, every sign, every per­son I pass, every day gone by. Maybe the tim­ing is right, where I find myself not only root­less in Ottawa, but with a sense of for­lorn­ness attached to the city as well. I’m begin­ning to won­der; what can I leave behind? What do I want to leave behind?

  1. Half the area of Ottawa, with over seven times the pop­u­la­tion. []

Hong Kong: Markets

Speaking Chinese

I’ve been speak­ing pure Chinese for almost an entire week straight. Certain mus­cles in my tongue that I didn’t know existed are tired. People tell me they’re sur­prised at how good my Chinese is — not just in terms of pro­nun­ci­a­tion, but vocab­u­lary as well — and won­der how it’s pos­si­ble with­out any means of prac­tice. I can’t explain this myself, aside from a con­stant inter­est in learn­ing new terms, and a love of Chinese movies (although this is more of a love of Hong Kong, and Chinese movies are my sen­ti­men­tal way of revis­it­ing it). There are also some Chinese terms that have no English equiv­a­lent, and peo­ple are always shocked when I know them.

Somehow, I can switch between the lan­guages quickly when I’m here. I even catch myself count­ing in Chinese now, which they say is what reveals your mother tongue.

Hong Kong Humidity

Difference in Hong Kong and Ottawa weather

One of the notable dif­fer­ences here is the humid­ity. The pages of my book are begin­ning to wrin­kle. Towels don’t dry when they’re hung on a line. Even though it’s 20°C out­side, it feels more like 15°C because it’s so damp. Humidity is some­thing that Hong Kong is known for, as it’s sur­rounded by water and filled with tall build­ings. It makes me won­der how peo­ple deal with mold in their houses.

Ironically, it “rained” two days in a row, but the rain was so weak that I had to ask oth­ers if they felt the droplets. Very dif­fer­ent from Ottawa, where rain­fall goes beyond obvi­ous, and can last for days on end.

Hong Kong: Departure and Arrival

Last Chance For Grandma

I’m on a plane some­where over the Pacific Ocean, in the mid­dle of this 16000km jour­ney. 18 hours of flight time, one lay­over in Chicago, and two meals.

My grand­mother in Hong Kong is dying. She’s been diag­nosed with colon can­cer, and started chemother­apy last week, slip­ping in and out of aware­ness due to the can­cer, the treat­ment, the med­ica­tions, or all three. So when my dad told me a few days ago that he was book­ing a ticket to fly out to see her, I had to take the oppor­tu­nity to go with him.

This is the woman to whom I mailed the first pay­cheque from my first job. The woman who gave me the jade neck­lace I never take off. The woman who came to Canada by her­self to find an edu­ca­tion for my dad, when the only English word she knew was “delay”. The woman who taught me how to hold chop­sticks prop­erly. The woman I’ve looked up to my entire life.

I don’t know how I’ll react when I see her, because I don’t know what con­di­tion she’s in. The details have been vague.

Awareness is a big thing. I want to be there. I want her to be aware. I want her to know how impor­tant she is to me.

The cir­cum­stances aren’t great, but I’m thank­ful to have this oppor­tu­nity to go. I’ll be able to bond with my dad. I’ll get a chance to see my uncles and aunts and cousins. I was going to go last year, but the trip was can­celed due to unfore­seen circumstances.

In a way, the tim­ing is right. I already have my pass­port. I was able to get more than three weeks off work. My col­i­tis has been diag­nosed, and I’m tak­ing med­ica­tion that will allow me to eat very well and not worry1. I have all the cam­era gear I need2. And I’ve been feel­ing so jaded with life lately, it’ll be good to get away, a lit­tle bit of much needed exile.

Before dri­ving to Toronto, I dropped Dolly off at Joel’s house3 The fish has a delayed feed­ing tablet. Extra pre­scrip­tions have been filled. The plants have been watered. Projects have been put on hold, both paid and unpaid, and plans have been can­celed. Even Naveed called me dur­ing the drive, and invited me to Rosella’s first birth­day party, but I’ll have to miss it. I don’t like to do things so last minute, but I have no choice.

This will be the first time I’ve ever gone when it wasn’t Christmas. It’ll be warmer, that’s for sure, and I’m going from a bru­tal Canadian win­ter to rel­a­tively trop­i­cal climes.

As a woman in her 80s4 with such a diag­no­sis on a dif­fer­ent con­ti­nent, it’ll prob­a­bly be the last chance for me to see her.

It feels like soon isn’t soon enough.

  1. I have yet to cal­cu­late the adjust­ment for the tim­ing of my med­ica­tions, since Hong Kong is 13 hours ahead, and the dosage for one of them is care­fully tapered over sev­eral weeks. []
  2. The last time I went to Hong Kong, I wasn’t into pho­tog­ra­phy yet, so I bor­rowed my dad’s cam­era and didn’t know how to use it. []
  3. He owes me a favour for tak­ing care of Sprocket for six weeks while he was in Australia last year. It’ll be inter­est­ing to see how she han­dles liv­ing in some­one else’s home, along with Sprocket and another dog. []
  4. No one really knows how old she is, because they didn’t keep birth records in Hong Kong for girls when she was born. I’m guess­ing some­where around late 80s. She just tells every­one that her birth­day is on Christmas to make it eas­ier. []

I Want

I want the view. The city lights beneath me, blink­ing in red and white, to remind me that life still goes on even as we’re uncon­scious of it.

I want to be in the café with Darren, talk­ing about that which only we could under­stand about each other.

I want to be look­ing out the open win­dow of my uncle’s apart­ment in Hong Kong, to hear the peo­ple talk­ing, even through the night. I want to smell the age of the wood, the steril­ity of the concrete.

I want the strings to be play­ing just for me. To guide me, through lay­ers of res­o­lu­tion after resolution.

I want to stay on the beach­front. To feel the cool, moist wind blow­ing through open cur­tains and doors, com­pletely trust­ing of the world. To feel the dark­ness and quiet swal­low­ing me whole.

I want to be rolled up in my sheets with her, pressed together on the couch, naked as we came, as the morn­ing light begins to glow through the blinds.

I want to be down­town in the warmth of sum­mer, with the energy of those around me as if the night would never end.

I want the rit­u­als accorded to those who love and are loved in return.

I want to walk out of the the­atre into the deaf­en­ing night air, my mind rac­ing and hum­bled from the performance.

I want to ride with John. To speak with­out think­ing. To feel with­out car­ing. To con­fide with­out worrying.

I want this feel­ing to last forever.

HK Fullscreen, Revisited, Again

Here I am, try­ing to get another entry down, but there’s a movie play­ing on OMNI.2, one of Canada’s pre­mier multi-cultural chan­nels. Although the pro­gram­ming of OMNI.2 is aimed for 22 dif­fer­ent eth­no­cul­tural groups in 20 dif­fer­ent lan­guages, Saturday nights are always in Cantonese. Almost just as invari­able are the roman­tic come­dies of Hong Kong cin­ema that they broad­cast around this time.

It makes sense of course; stud­ies have shown that by 2017, vis­i­ble minori­ties will top 50% in Toronto and Vancouver, with Chinese peo­ple mak­ing up over 500,000 of that per­cent­age. Add to this the grow­ing fas­ci­na­tion of younger peo­ple with the Asian cul­ture, and recent flicks from Hong Kong are the per­fect way to build a strong mar­ket presence.

Unfortunately, the movies are mostly trite: a col­lec­tion of pre­dictable, sac­cha­rine love sto­ries with lit­tle artis­tic intent, and the one on now is no dif­fer­ent. I have to admit though, as sim­ple as these movies are, they still affect me. When I see the char­ac­ter­is­tic neon build­ing signs, homely food stalls filled with wok hey, and claus­tro­pho­bi­cally busy streets of Hong Kong again, I’m filled with a cer­tain inex­plic­a­ble romanticism.

And I can’t seem to get over it. All I want to do is go to Hong Kong again and share the expe­ri­ence with some­one. An expe­ri­ence that’s heart-racingly poignant, like the ado­les­cent mem­ory of a first date, when you’re build­ing up the courage to hold someone’s hand. Perhaps, like Humbert Humbert in Nabokov’s Lolita, the mem­ory of my child­hood has frozen some­thing in me. A mem­ory that’s beautiful.

Simply, purely, beautiful.